It was the renowned capital of the Ptolemies, with numerous monuments. It
was the site of the Lighthouse, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient
World, as well as the Great Library. It was along these shores that
history took a tragic turn at the time of Cleopatra, Julius Caesar, Mark
Antony, and Octavian.
With the death of
Cleopatra, a whole era in Egyptian history was closed. Alexandria remained
capital of Egypt, but Egypt was now a Roman province. The age of Egyptian
Monarchs gave way to the age of Roman Emperors, and Cleopatra's death gave
way to the rise of Rome. The Ptolemies were of Macedonian descent, yet
they ruled Egypt as Egyptians - as Pharaohs. And, indeed, Cleopatra was
the last Pharaoh.
When
Napoleon Bonaparte and the French army entered Alexandria on July 1st
1789, she was no more than a small town. The population of the city that
was once the second largest in the world had shrunk to a mere 8000.
Illustrations and maps shown in "Déscription d'Egypte", the comprehensive
book compiled by the French expedition, suggest that the population was
mainly centered around the Turkish Town, now known as Mansheya. only
ruins, sand dunes, and two obelisks known as Cleopatra's Needles (one of
them fallen) could be seen at today's city center, Raml Station.
Napoleon's army of 5000 men captured the city with little or no
resistance.
Although the French expedition eventually failed when in 1799 the British
Lord, Nelson, defeated the French at Abou-Qir (Canopus), its influence on
Egyptian history was dramatic. It was a wake-up call to a country that was
struck by Ottoman isolationism and Mamelouk corruption. It also brought to
the attention of the British the importance of Egypt's strategic location.
For the next decade, Alexandria wittnessed military confrontations between
the Ottomans and the Mamelouks as well as the British who sent another
expedition in 1807.
During
the course of the events, a new political figure started to emerge. An
Albanian officer by the name of Mohamed Ali who had been appointed by the
Ottoman Sultan as ruler of Egypt was gradually gaining power. He finally
declared Egypt as an autonomous state under the Ottoman sovereignty, and
started a dynasty of Khedives and Kings that lasted for over a century.
Mohamed
Ali is one of the most controversial figures in Egyptian history. Some
consider him a great leader who had ambitious plans to revive Egypt's old
glory. Others believe he was just another dictator who was abusive of the
country and the people. Most, however, agree, that Egypt experienced an
age of "Renaissance" under his rule. He gave away Alexandria's own
Cleopatra's Needles as "gifts" to the British and American governments.
But he also cut the new Mahmoudeya Canal and connected it to the Nile, an
achievement that revived Alexandria's as well as Egypt's economy. The city
center (Mansheya) as we see it today is mainly the work of his engineers.
He also prepared the Western Harbor to be Egypt's main port, and built a
modern lighthouse at its entrance. When Mohamed Ali died, Alexandria's
population had grown from a meager 8,000 to a prosperous 60,000.
Today,
the city looks different from that of the Ptolemies. Greater Alexandria
stretches nearly 70 kilometers (45 miles) along the Mediterranean coast,
with urban areas covering more than 100 square kilometers. Her rich
population of more than 4 million still reflects her ancient history and
close ties to the Mediterranean. With ethnic minorities including
Armenians, Greeks, Italians, Lebanese, Maltese, and Syrians among others,
Alexandria is considered the most diverse culturally of all Egyptian
cities. Her diverse experiences are deeply engraved in the names of her
districts: Greek names Bacos (Bacchus), Quartier Grec (Greek
Quarter); Ptolemaic names Soter, Cleopatra;
Roman/Coptic names Camp César, Sainte Catherine, San Stefano;
Arab names Shatby, Sidi Bishr, Sidi Gaber; Jewish names
Smouha, Menasha (Menasce); modern European names Fleming,
Glymenopoulo, Lambruzo, Schutz, Stanley; and modern Egyptian names
Moharram Bey, Moustafa Kamel, Rushdy, Saba Pasha. She is home of
Alexandria University, the Arab Institute of Science and Technology,
Université Senghor and the Eastern Mediterranean Regional Office of the
World Health Organization. Most recently, a project is underway to revive
Alexandria's old library. On the Corniche (seafront) at Silsila, site of
the Ancient Ptolemaic Palace and the Caesarium, the new building will be
erected, and will carry the name of Bibliotheca Alexandrina.
Alexandria lies north-west of the Nile delta and stretches along a narrow
land strip between the Mediterranean Sea and Lake Mariut (Mareotis). It is
linked to Cairo by two major highways and a railroad line. It is one of
the most notable summer resorts in the Middle East, for, in addition to
its temperate winters, its beaches, with white sands and magnificent
scenery, stretch for 140 km along the Mediterranean Sea, from Abu Qir, in
the east to Al-Alamein and Sidi Abdul Rahman, in the west.